The SJX Podcast

With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast , CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker quietly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Show notes: 02:30: Michel's journey into watchmaking 06:36: Managing succession of a founder-led brand 11:30: The decision to reject expanding the business beyond ~200 pieces/year 14:00: The development of the Qualité Musée standard 16:25: The role of R&D and technical innovation at Greubel Forsey 22:45: Adapting the house style of architectural watchmaking to smaller watches 23:45: The Hand Made series, preserving traditional skills, and balancing production 30:00: In-house hairspring production 32:10: Handling bespoke and custom orders responsibly 34:40: Longevity and lessons from two decades of independent watchmaking 38:40: The future of ultra high-end watch market and the importance of intrinsic value 40:35: Recognition and awards in the watch industry Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Geneva Watch Days just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. The event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. In total, some 400 watches were debuted at the event - but were they any good? Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe. The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution. Show notes: 00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini 03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT 10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community. Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus. Show notes: 00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway 02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins 04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking 10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers 14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media 18:43: Predictions for what comes next Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category. Show notes: 00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C 01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde 02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 03:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition 04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” 05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer 07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium 09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver 10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points" 12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller 14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 15:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing. In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast , SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887. Show notes: 00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani 02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar 07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969 12:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement 14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V4 16:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs 18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer 20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast , Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop. The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement. Show notes: 00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports 05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock 09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends. On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast , we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate. We also look at the opposite end of the market, which in some ways is only gaining momentum, with a number of multi-million-dollar results in the spring auctions. Show notes: 00:30: Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop 02:30: Google search volume 05:25: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription result at Phillips 10:10: F.P. Journe 'Swiss Fine Timing' edition results 13:41: Christie's highlights, including Patek Philippe ref. 3448G 'Red Dot' and ref. 5959R Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko's updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand's larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the brand is listening to collector feedback. We also shares our condolences with the Stern family over the passing of Philippe Stern, and discuss his towering legacy. Show notes: 00:30: Philippe Stern's legacy 06:00: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 refresh (new bracelets and UFA movements) 09:30: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM 12:50: Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar 15:00: Breguet Tourbillon 225th Anniversary 16:00: Chanel Chessboard Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This weekend, the United States marks its 250th Independence Day — it's the perfect opportunity to reflect on recent American contributions to the field of horology. On episode 43 of the SJX Podcast , SJX and Brandon discuss the latest entry in this field — the Liberty 250 from 1776 Atelier — and break down the claim that 90% of its components are manufactured in the US. The conversation also discusses RGM and J.N. Shapiro — brands that have contributed substantially to contemporary American watchmaking. Finally, to look into the future we go back to school by visiting the Watch Technology Institute in Seattle — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast , we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes. The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand's past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel's watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it's a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback . Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction. He also discusses the RRCHF's in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The spring auction seasons gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie's Sotheby's, and Antiquorum. Auction dates (in order): Phillips: May 9 & 10 Antiquorum: May 9 & 10 Sotheby's: May 10 Christie's: May 11 & 12 Show notes: 1:00: Patek Philippe Worldtime ref. 2523 1:20: Akrivia AK-06 1:45: Charles Frodsham pocket watch for J.P. Morgan partner Thomas Lamont 2:55: Victor Kullberg tourbillon pocket watch 3:25: Paul Ditisheim tourbillon pocket watch 4:45: Patek Philippe dual time pocket watch with Turkish dial 5:53: Audemars Piguet single-button chronograph wristwatch 7:15: School watch from Geneva Watchmaking School 7:47: Patek Philippe ref. 425 for Asprey 8:55: Audemars Piguet observatory dial 9:05: Rolex Submariner white gold prototype 10:20: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 diamond-set 11:30: A. Lange & Söhne grand complication pocket watch Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are usually on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a high-amplitude 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Show notes: 1:12: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery 2:45: Anton Suhanov Flamingo 4:20: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60 7:20: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One 9:15: Niton Prima 12:00: Franc Vila FVF2 14:30: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon 15:00: Marco Lang Seven Spheres Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026 . Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode. Show notes: 0:55: Rolex Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 126502 3:15: Rolex Yacht-Master II 5:00: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 'Jubilee' Dial 8:30: Patek Philippe Celestial ref. 6105G 12:00: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5610P 50th Anniversary 12:30: Patek Philippe Automaton ref. 5249 13:30: Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen" 14:50: Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar 15:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V 16:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Point s 19:11: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 19:40: Tudor Monarch 21:00: TAG Heuer Evergraph 25:00: Cartier Crash Platinum 26:20: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver SLGB025 and SLGB023 28:00: Ressence Type 11 29:30: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand's new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production. We'll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry's biggest event. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

It's been a promising year for independent watchmaking, and Watches & Wonders hasn't even taken place yet. On episode 35 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss Rexhep Rexhepi's first in-house chronograph bearing his own name. What Mr Rexhepi does, others often imitate, so it's worth thinking about how the launch of this traditional-yet-novel chronograph will shape the future of the category. The conversation also turns to Ressence, which has just unveiled its own in-house movement, and has done so at a fair price. Russian AHCI-member Anton Suhanov also joins the ranks of indies with their own calibres, installing a 15+ mm luminous balance wheel in his third wristwatch. And that's not the only Russian watch boasting unusual specs — Konstantin Chaykin revealed the series production version of his ThinKing, the thinnest watch ever at just 1.65 mm thick, complete with double 'mystery' displays. New names also made their debuts recently, including Stéphane Pierre and Mathieu Cleguer, who has come up with a novel double-wheel escapement of his own design. These makers are illustrative of a broader trend in independent watchmaking, namely the engineer-led brand. Show notes: 00:20: Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF 06:45: Raymond Weil Millesime “The Fifty” 07:20: Ressence Type 11 10:00: Anton Suhanov Flamingo 15:00: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery 16:30: Cleguer Inspiration One 18:00: Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast — and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast , Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities. Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers why our preferences form before we start thinking, why smarter collectors tend to construct more elaborate — not more objective — arguments, and why an attack on your watch can feel like an attack on you personally. Read more here: https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/your-brain-is-a-defence-lawyer-watch-forum-psychology Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house 'flyer' GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve. Show notes: 00:35: King Seiko Vanac Titanium 3:30: Seiko Marinemaster 8:00: Orient Star M45 11:10: Raketa Baikonur 12:20: Christopher Ward Sealander True GMT Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.