Woodshop Life Podcast

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I was wondering if you guys had recommendations for a first time router purchase. I plan to use it mostly for dados/grooves and probably some edge work. I’d rather buy something I can grow into rather than need to purchase an upgrade. Also, are there any must have accessories (edge guide, etc) Thanks for your time, Ryan Ive sent a bunch of questions lately but thought this one might be good for the audience. I just made a multitude of stupid mistakes which ended up with a board kicked back, going through my window, and hitting my house. I removed my splitter on my table saw because the anti kickback spawls have alot of resistance with larger wood (2" plus). I ripped a piece of wood through. I dont have an outfeed table and didnt want the board to hit the ground, so after the board cleared the front of the blade I went to the back and pulled on the cut piece. The blade caught and launched through my garage window and hit my house. Im lucky my grip was light and I didnt lose a hand. All stupid complacent mistakes. But I know many people who remove the guard, will grab one little piece at the back of the saw, etc. Im okay, but shaken and frankly embarrassed. What are some of the biggest / complacent safety incidents you have had in the shop and how did you get back into woodworking after? I dont feel like people like to talk about the mistakes they have made when it comes to safety. But I feel we can learn from them. Thanks,,Tyler Guys Questions: I am working on a large kitchen cabinet project and have come across a few questions I thought would make good discussion. Project includes 16 base cabinets, 14 uppers, range hood and a couple of custom spice racks, open shelves etc. Upper will have 14" upper uppers stacked on them with glass fronts. Lowers are almost entirely drawers. Carcasses are about done heading into face frames and drawers. -Ever use a shaper to add dado on 8' strips of wood for drawer box parts? Wondering if there is a good way to setup the shaper with power feeder to run through all the strips then cut to length. Essentially making my own drawer blanks. Any other thoughts or recommendations when batching out large cabinet projects. Matt Hi Crew, I am a woodworker based in western Arizona, where I primarily build furniture in a very low-humidity environment. I am planning a move to the East Coast next year and would appreciate your advice on how to account for the significant increase in humidity when designing and building future pieces. I frequently use techniques like glue-ups for panels, breadboard ends table tops, many solid wood table tops and veneering, I've not experienced any age-related issues with any of the pieces that I've made in my current climate. Specifically, do you have any advice on laminating resawn hardwood over plywood? Are there certain plywood cores (such as MDF) or specific types of adhesives that perform better in high-humidity areas? I am also interested in finishing techniques for these conditions, though I will search your previous episodes to see if you have already covered that topic. Best, Ken Huys Questions: A few months ago I wrote in about veneering a plywood box to make a treasure chest for cards and notes for my oldest daughter’s wedding. As a reminder, I had some wood, morado at about 3/8 thick, that I planned to re-saw for the veneer only because I had it and liked how it looked. The final chest looks pretty cool (pictures attached and on my Instagram at @mr.downing.leatherandwood ) and was very appreciated at the wedding, but it was a fight along the way. So I thought a bit of a postmortem on 2 of the big problems I had might make for an interesting conversation. Problem 1-the wood itself. In hindsight, wrong wood choice because it fought me at every turn. It chipped and splintered while jointing and planing, and the saw dust got me very sick, like I had the flu. But for the specific question, when I re-sawed, I tuned my bandsaw, got a fresh blade, and was able to cut roughly 1mm veneer. The problem was that veneer then cracked with any bend. As the top of the box was curved, this was a huge fight. I tried to go a bit thinner, and I had the opposite issue-it rolled up like a cinnamon stick and wouldn’t go flat. The flat parts of the box were fine, but the top did crack when I bent the veneer over in a few spots even with picking out the best pieces with the straightest grain, but I was able to fill the cracks and hide it pretty well. I don’t have a vacuum bag so I installed the top veneer panel with wide ratchet straps over a matching curved caul and used polyurethane glue. Is there anything to be done with “problem” wood species when re-sawing for veneer, either to make it bend more easily or flatten it when it curls? Peter I was wondering what you'd recommend for a first-time HVLP spray system. I'd like something that runs relatively quietly. I've used a 30-gallon air compressor with a cheap Harbor Freight gravity-feed spray gun before, and while it worked, the compressor was louder than my spouse would like. I'll primarily be spraying acrylic primer and paint for cabinets and other casework, but I'm also curious whether the same system could be used for walls and other household painting projects. I've been looking at the Wagner Flexio 3500 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-Flexio-3500-Electric-Handheld-HVLP-Paint-Sprayer-2419306/316886238) but I'm not sure if a handheld unit like that is the right tool for cabinet work or if I'd be better off with a dedicated HVLP turbine system. What are your thoughts on the functionality, finish quality, and versatility of something like this? Andrew

This Episodes Questions Brians Questions: Hey Gents, As always love the podcast. I just upgrade from a bosch jobsite table saw to a general international 50-220 hybrud thats about 20 years old. It is in great shape and I want to keep it that way. What are some general maintenance things you would initially do with an older saw such as this and what would you do going forward to keep it in tip top shape? Thanks again! Tyler You guys often talk about pocket hole screws being an easy way to fasten boards together. I find I often have the boards move on me and misalign the joints when I use pocket hole screws. Do you experience this / how do you prevent it? Especially when one of the boards is too long to feasibly clamp it well. Tyler Guys Questions: Hey guys… Indianapolis native woodworker/DIYer here. Second time to ask a question and unfortunately is one you have probably answered before, but hopefully there is a slight twist to this one. I’m looking to refinish a dinning table that is currently made of oak with a light yellower stain with a clear coat that is knicked up and scratched. The wife would like for the table to be black. I’m interested in using Target Coatings EM6600 - Raven black pigmented laquer. I’ve never used the pigmented laquer and hopefully it’s easy enough for a DIY guy to do a decent job. Couple questions about this: 1. Do I need to sand the old finish off or use a chemical to soften the finish and then sand it off, or can a pigmented laquer go on over and the finish since it is covering over the old colors completely? Or instead of sanding can you use Target coatings HSF5000 primer, surfaced, and grain filler over the top of the old finish? 2. If I do need to sand it at least to scuff it up for the primer to adhere how far back do I need to sand it back? Is it just enough to rough it up, or do I need to be all the way back to bare wood? 3. Lastly has anyone ever used the grain filler primer from Target Coatings? Am I wasting my money on this product? Wood grain showing through the black finish isn’t the end of the world, but if we could have a completely smooth finish and little to know grain causing a “feeling” on the table that would be preferable. And maybe we would get that from the laquer building up already. Thanks for the awesome podcast. I’ve learned a ton from you all! Thanks Jason Im 62 years old been woodworking for years and would love to use sketch up to help design and build projects. I know that there are versions dedicated to woodworking. My question is do you guys use sketch up? What version do you use? I know there are subscription fees. Im concerned about the learning curve. Ive watched some YouTube videos Im a small hobbyist shop doing small projects, built ins and i do a lot of design just in my head. Would love to be able to design and refine projects on the computer before i start building. Appreciate any advice on beginning this. Thank you, Phil Huys Questions: G'day guys , from Australia. long time listener and I finally have a question. An auction for a closing business appeared on my Instagram feed and it was nearby so I bid and won around 3000 square metres of veneer (roughly 32,000 square feet or 3/4 of an acre.)for the princely sum of $56 AUD or $39 USD. The veneers were shopsawn in house and are 1.8mm - 2.4mm with some of the walnut 5000mm long and 600mm wide the species also include. - Walnut burl. - Yellow poplar burl. -Maple - Pacific maple. - European Walnut - European oak - Silky Oak - QLD Pepperwood - Palisander Rosewood - Tasmanian blackwood - Fiddleback Tasmanian Blackwood - Blackbutt It's a lifetime supply for me and I have already started to flatten and sort some of the stock , which brings me to my first question. The poplar burl is extremely dry, crinkled, and bubbly. I sprayed it with a homemade veneer flattening solution( alcohol, glycerine and water) and pressed it in cauls and clamps. The veneer definitely flattened out and became pliable and flexible, however. As it has flattened over in the press, it has folded over itself in places, picture ironing over a crinkle in a Shirt i guess. I can send a photo if you want. This is all over the veneer , unlike a shirt I can't just stretch it out and go over it, so my question to you three is, how do I "stretch out" my veneer to get it flat, or is this veneer gone? The rest of the veneer is great, thankfully it's just the poplar burl. Dylan I enjoy your show and have a question to submit. I am building a cherry slab river table with a black epoxy center. My question is regarding the final finish coat. I have done two similar projects on one I used epoxy and didn’t care for the plastic look of the finish. On the second I used Rubio but came out dull and wasn’t very durable which is important because my family doesn’t always treat wood finishes with the care I would like. What finish would you recommend that has a sheen in the satin to semi gloss range with good durability?I have a lvlp spray gun if that helps with options. Spencer

Brians Questions: I have a question that i would like your input on. I have a double car garage that i use as my workshop. I want to build an outfeed table for my tablesaw. I was thinking of something that could be multi use. I was thinking of making two 2'x 4' workbenches that would be on hinges so i could open it as a 2x8 or close it so its 4x4. I was thinking of using castors as well as adjustable feet. Im not 100% sold on the idea and was just hoping to hear some suggestions from the pros! Hopefully this makes for a good question for your podcast. Once again, thank you for the AMAZING podcast and youtube videos. Matt Hi all, First, thanks for the podcast, by far the best format and the best information. It seems each podcast I almost always learn something. I have a question about glue ups. When I glue up a joint, I try to keep squeeze out to a minimum and by doing that I’m not sure if I’ll use enough glue. However, squeeze out is inevitable. Do you try to keep squeezing out to a minimum and if so what steps do you take. Also, when you do have squeeze out on a joint what do you do to get rid of the excess glue. I’m not talking about squeeze out on a panel, since it’s easy to either use a plane to get rid of the glue when it dries, or sand it away. Any advice that you could share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike Guys Questions: Hello! My name is Eric. I am a rather new/inexperienced woodworker. After hurricane Helene did so much damage in South Carolina, I decided I no longer wanted a large Hickory tree beside my house. I paid professionals to fell this 100 year-old tree. I paid my friend, a rookie, to mill it into 5/4 inch planks/boards. I’ve been air-drying this wood in my garage for over a year. It is time to do something with it. When I looked up, “What should you make out of Hickory?” The answers are baseball bats, ax handles, hardwood floors, and steps for staircases. I am not going to make any of those. I have 750 board foot of this stuff… What should I make? What should I not make with this wood? What gotchas do I need to be prepared for? Any other advice? Eric in SC Hi guys, I’m building a large frame for a canvas artwork for a friend. I’d like to reinforce the miters using miter keys. Previously, I’ve cut the slots for miter keys on the table saw with a dedicated 45 degree jig when building small boxes. This frame is pretty big though, and I think the size would make it really awkward to do this way on the table saw. Any other methods besides the table saw you’ve had success with cutting miter keys? Do you have any general recommendations for thickness of the miter keys in relation to the miter itself? Or at what thickness of material you would consider multiple miter keys for added strength? The frame is all going to be stained the same color so I’m not worried about aesthetic of the keys or contrasting with different wood species, just purely doing it for added strength. The frame is 1.5” thick with 4/4 ash and about 3 feet by 5 feet for reference. Thanks! Evan Huys Questions: The veneers were shopsawn in house and are 1.8mm - 2.4mm with some of the walnut 5000mm long and 600mm wide the species also include. - Walnut burl. - Yellow poplar burl. -Maple - Pacific maple. - European Walnut - European oak - Silky Oak - QLD Pepperwood - Palisander Rosewood - Tasmanian blackwood - Fiddleback Tasmanian Blackwood - Blackbutt My other question is, can the three of you suggest a project each of small to medium size I can do with this veneer . I find it easier to work towards something when I have been told what to do rather than racking my brain in the workshop trying to think of something to do whilst drowning in a sea of veneer. Dylan Hi folks First as always thanks for one of the most friendliest and informative woodworking podcasts. So here’s my dilemma. I’ve often heard about letting the wood acclimate to your shop environment before beginning a project. I understand that. My confusion comes in when starting to mill the wood. It’s often mentioned to mill the wood in graduated steps of a couple of days to allow it to release any built up tension. However I never hear of this being done in large production shops. Guy and Brian how do you do this where you work? Thanks, Doug

Brians Questions: Hello! I recently got into woodworking in part after being inspired by finding a local lumber yard and not being beholden to the big orange box. I’ve realized my next step is to figure out a planing method - the wood I buy is rough sawn, and I’m not in a position to buy a planer or jointer given the size of my garage shop/price constraints. I’ve done some research on hand planes and plan to start experimenting with some used/refurbished ones. Do you think this is a reasonable method for small/medium projects (bookshelves and tables would be largest I’d do), or should I jump right to other methods like a router or electric planer. Thanks! Ryan Zach from Minnesota here. I heard you're in need of questions, so I figured I'd come to the rescue. My question is regarding developing and learning new techniques and skills in the shop. You guys have previously made the suggestion that when trying to learn new skills, the best approach is to take on a project which incorporates one new skill (the one you would like to learn) versus diving into a project that's going to involve several unfamiliar skills. While I think that's a great approach, my question is: how do I know when it is time to move on to another new skill? For example, if I decide I want to learn how to use dovetails, how many projects in a row should I spend focusing on that technique before progressing to learning another new one? Should I keep at it until I feel that I've mastered dovetails, or should I just practice it until I feel like I have a firm understanding of the process? Thanks again for all of your expertise and your dedication to the woodworking community at large. I eagerly anticipate each new episode. I hope all of your projects are doing well, and I hope you are doing even better. Guys Questions: Hello, I’m really enjoying the podcast—it’s become one of my favorites to listen to. I appreciate how genuine and down-to-earth you all are. I’m currently building a small part-time crafting business using a Onefinity CNC and an xTool laser. For software, I use LightBurn and Carveco Maker+. I recently heard Guy talking about using his laser, and I think I’ve also heard you discuss CNC work in past episodes. I was curious if either of you have any advice for laser engraving softwoods like pine. I often get blotchy or inconsistent results because of the varying grain density, and I’m always looking for ways to improve my finished products. On the CNC side, I’d love to hear your thoughts on workholding methods. My spoilboard has dovetail tracks, so I use homemade clamps quite a bit. I also use double-sided tape regularly. Surprisingly, the foam double-sided tape from Dollar Tree (three rolls for $1.25) has worked far better for me than some of the CNC-specific tapes I’ve tried, which didn’t seem to hold very well. For two-sided projects, I’ve also made a few fixture boards with dowel-pin locators, and those have been a huge help with alignment. I’ve learned that there’s always something new to learn in this hobby, and I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences. Thanks for the great content, and keep up the awesome work! Have a great day! Kevin I’m building a round table with an x-frame base. The top 60” in diameter and 1 1/4” thick hickory. The x-frame is 37” across. I also plan on adding an apron about 3 1/2” tall to the table. I have heard more cons than pros on c-channel but would like your guys opinion on this. I definitely can’t have this thing droop. Also, while I have your attention, how would you attach the apron to the top taking into account wood movement. Thanks for having a great podcast. You have helped me a number of times in the past with valuable advice. Tom Huys Questions: I have an old park bench that I rebuilt three years ago using white oak. I applied 3 coats of Minwax spar urethane over the wood, sanding with 240 grit sandpaper between coats. Now, after 3 years, the finish has failed and the wood has noticeable splintering, peeling, and bowing. While I think I can salvage the wood on the back with sanding and refinishing, the seat slats will need to be replaced. I wanted to use quarter sawn white oak, but my lumber supplier only had rift sawn white oak in stock at the time. I feel this will be adequate, but would appreciate your opinions regarding wood choice. My main question is about finishing: will I be further ahead to use a penetrating oil first, such as tung oil, before the spar urethane? Will this add to the longevity of the wood? I realize that the sun and the elements will degrade any finish over time. Thanks for what I would consider to be the top woodworking podcast available! Kurt Thank you for all your good work. As in a previous question, I am the one who makes furniture for immigrants. In your last podcast you discussed the importance of color match and grain pattern when assembling a table top. I am experimenting with a 3rd: "Feel", and would like to know your take on this. I am working with cherry so it easy to manage. I find that commercial furniture finishes, particularly on table tops are so smooth that if you close your eyes and pass your fingers over them, you can't tell it was made of wood. I have felt that the "texture" and feel of a finished top should reflect the purpose of the piece. A "boot bench" ( I live in Maine) was prepped to have a deliberate grainy feel, a hallway table was hand planed with an LN 5 set to produce medium shavings to smooth it somewhat, and finally a coffee top was hand planed to fine shavings and then finished with 1000 grit sandpaper that left a top almost glass like. The first two were finished with shellac and some wax. The last was finished with shellac and "Tried and True". Question: do you vary the prep before finishing a piece in order to convey a different "feel" to the top based on customer preference, or purpose of the piece? Do you think "feel' has a role as do "color match" and "grain"? Do you take this into consideration when doing your preps? thanks for reading this far, John Vogt Falmouth ME

Brians Questions: Love the show. Thanks for getting right to the questions. I have a project where I've made hundreds of the same item. Over that time, I've come up with a bunch of different jigs and processes that I've iterated over time to make things go faster and work better. I wonder if you have experience with and thoughts about how to approach this kind of woodworking-at-scale and if Huy in particular has any take-aways from making all those drawer knobs recently. Thanks! Mike Hey guys, my name is Van Whitmire and I recently started listening to your podcast. I’ve really been enjoying it and had a couple questions for you. I’m 17 years old and super involved in my high school club, SkillsUSA. I placed 6th in the state of Nebraska in cabinetmaking this year. When I get out of high school, what do you think would be the better route: getting on with a construction crew or trying to find a job in a cabinet shop? I’m not a super experienced woodworker yet, but I know my way around a shop pretty well. I’m currently finishing up my junior year of high school, and over the last few weeks I decided I want to start making and selling custom cutting boards. Right now I’m completely running everything out of my high school woodshop, and I’ve also started buying tools to slowly build up my own small shop. How would you recommend pricing my boards? I don’t want to make them so expensive that nobody buys them, but I’d also like to actually make some money from them. Thanks again, and keep up the great work. You guys are doing an awesome job with the podcast and I’m looking forward to listening to more episodes. Van Guys Questions G'day fellas, A quick question that might not have such a quick answer: when matching planks for a tabletop or panel, which do you prioritise - Grain matching or colour matching? Thanks for all you do! Jim from Perth Good morning gentlemen! As always, I love the show and value your perspectives. Keep up the great work. I have been woodworking as a hobbyist worth the occasional commission piece for 30 or so years, and I'm always looking to improve, learn, and grow as a woodworker. For the past few years I've also had the pleasure (and torture...lol) of working at a lumber yard/hardware selling lumber and tools. I've finally come to the point where I'm seriously considering getting a track saw. My question is, which one to get? I'm looking for one that will give really good cuts, have some versatility with accessories, but not break the bank. I know that Festool, Milwaukee, and Makita are, for the most part, interchangeable with the tracks, and DeWalt and Kreg have their own proprietary track designs. Aside from straight cuts with the saw, how have you guys used the guide rail system in your woodworking? Thank you, Joshua. The Blackdog Woodworks Huys Questions Greetings all; setting up new shop; gotta ductwork question. First main equipment: 5hp sawstop; 20” planer; 16” jointer; floor spindle and belt sanders; 20” bandsaw and such. Gotta 3hp Oneida cyclone dust collector. Question; I’ve been using hvac ductwork for years and manual blast gates; advantages of upgrading on norfab ducts? Are there better options? Guessing $2k-ish investment. Cheers guys! Chris Hi fellas, I'm making a coffin shaped bookshelf for a friend of mine using 3/4" plywood. I wanted to make dados for the shelves but my router base doesn't have an adjustable angle. So i made a jig to achieve the angle but when I made 2 passes with my 1/2" straight bit to get to the exact thickness of the shelf, there was a noticeable "step" in the dado. What I ended up doing was simply cutting an angle on the sides of the shelves to match the angle of the case and then glued and screwed straight through the case and plugged the holes, no dados. I'd like to know how you would handle attaching shelves at peculiar angles and if theres a better way to make angled dados, Thanks! -Matt

Brians Questions: Hey guys, thanks for answering all of my questions in the past. I have something a little different this time. While cutting a mortise on the router table into a leg, I accidentally touched the outside of the leg to the router bit and did some damage. I happen to have the offcut and the grain is a perfect match (see photo). What would be your process to go about repairing this so it is near invisible? My thought was to use a wheel marking guage and chisels to remove a sliver of the leg. I have no idea how to cut a perfectly matching piece from the offcut to fit into that removed material. In order for the grain to match, the repair piece can't be oversized and would have to fit perfectly. This is on the outside of the leg and will be seen. Or is that a little unreasonable and would you not match the grain perfectly? Thanks, Jeff Howdy fellas, Love the podcast, thanks for what you do. For the sake of space and cleanliness, I've decided to get rid of my table saw. It's an 80's era Delta Unisaw that runs great, but doesn't have any safety features and the dust collection is wanting. Rather than upgrading, I plan to use my bandsaw + planer/jointer for ripping, tracksaw + MFT for cross cutting and router table for joinery. The only thing I haven't quite figured out is cross cutting short pieces, anything <8 inches is too short for my MFT + track saw. So far I use the bandsaw + shooting board if I have a lot to do, or handsaw + shooting board if it's a one off. It works, but I feel like there's an easier way I'm just not seeing. Y'all have talked before about workflows without table saws so I'm wondering what you would do. And no, I don't have a miter saw. Is it worth getting a small miter saw or contractor table saw just for short crosscuts? Thanks again for your insights. -Bryan Guys Questions: You guys have the best woodworking podcast on the web, and I think you are fans of shellac like I am. Just about any finish for me starts with a few layers of shellac. Every once in a while, I will notice a defect in the wood, like sanding scratch marks, under the shellac while applying it. So, of course I sand out the bad spot and apply a bit of shellac over the repair. But the act of sanding through the shellac to the wood has effected the surface. The wood doesn't want to accept the shellac. I put coat after coat on the spot that I sanded, but its not building up. Sometimes I sand the surface between coats and I can see the repair shellac I have been putting down has been migrating to the periphery of the repair spot. Like a little berm around the effected area. I know the spot where I sanded will be a few thousanths lower than the rest, but the shellac just doesn't want to be there. Like the surface where where I sanded down to wood has become shellac-phobic. I did a test on African Mahogony and after 8 coats, I got the surface of the board uniform. Have you ever seen this ? Is there a name for this problem? Do you have a better solution than just keep putting down more coats of shellac ? I would include an image if I can figure out how to on this Chat. Steve in Windsor sps1@cogeco.ca Eventually I can get the surface uniform. Where do you see veneering having the greatest impact, such as bent lamination, solid pattern the top of furniture, inlays, marquetry, etc? George Huys Questions: Hello, Like everyone else, I enjoy listening to your podcast while working in shop. I make shadow boxes with my CNC and have a question about my assembly methods. I start by making an 8/4 panel and a 4/4 panel to cut the shapes out on my CNC. I use the 8/4 piece for the body of the box and the 4/4 for the top face. I cut a rabbet on the 8/4 to set a piece of acrylic glass in leaving about a 1/16" gap for movement. I then glue the top 4/4 face to the body using small dowels for alignment. I'm using flat sawn lumber and the grain of the body and the face run the same direction. I make a removable plywood back to gain access to the box. The width of the body and face is only 2" and the overall size of the box is generally 25"x30". I'm concerned about wood movement and the top face splitting due to movement at a different rate than the bottom piece. Any thoughts on this and do you have any suggestions on other assembly methods? ALSO - Would you have different thoughts if the grain of the 8/4 body ran perpendicular to the grain of the 4/4 top face piece? Hope all that makes sense, you can see examples of what I'm doing on my facebook - seven cities woodworks https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1GM2wxMGiR/ Please remove the face book link if you share my question on the webpage. I'm not looking for advertisement here. Thank you for all the valuable information you share and hope to hear your feedback! Chad I recently acquired a Fuji Minimite 5 stage Platinum hvlp spray system with T75G gravity gun. I also purchased 1.0mm and 1.8mm aircap sets and 3M PPS 2.0 lids and liners. I seek your advice on how / when I need to clean my spray gun. Let’s say I’m spraying multiple coats every 6 hours over a period of 2 days. Do I clean the gun fully (disassemble and fully clean out) between each coat or only after I apply the last coat? If not full gun cleaning between coats, what’s the minimum cleaning I need to do between coat? Does the type of finish I use change this? I will be spraying shellac, solvent and waterborne poly, waterborne primer, waterborne latex paint, etc. Bonus related question, what additional accessories would you recommend I buy for this spray system? For example I already bought the remote control for power. What else could improve my spraying? Thank you for a great podcast! Max Greddie Woodworks

Brians Questions: I frequently work with dark wood, and need to mark the cuts. Do you have a recommendation for a white pencil or pen that is fine tipped? Thank you for the great show and your time to produce it. -George What has been your favorite veneering project (or what project would you like to do with veneer) George Guys Questions: Hey guys, your recent talk about bandsaws made wonder if anyone is using anything cool for bandsaw infeed and out feed, im using roller stands and doing resaw cuts that are about 10’ long. I also was curious how you guys would go about making a cabinet over a toilet not require filler strips? Maybe a scribed face frame? Great podcast lately, i really enjoy it. Tyler I’m making a bow front dresser and the bow will be made by gluing up 1/8th” bending play. The front of the drawers will be 1/16th” shop sawn cherry veneer. I’m planning on putting 1/32” backing veneer on the inside of the bow. To make up the bow i will have a couple glue ups. The first glue up will be the 1/8th” bending ply and the 1/32” backing veneer. For ease of use, I plan to use unibond one for this glue up. The second glue up for the front piece of 1/16” cherry veneer I plan to use Unibond 800 to ensure there is no wood movement later, since the height of some of the drawers will be 10”. My questions are: is 1/32 backing veneer ok seeing the front piece of veneer is 1/16”? And second: is using Unibond 800 a bad idea because it will only be for the front piece of veneer. Mike Huys Questions: Hi, Love the show. I recently got into woodworking as part of my stress relief from my W2 job (ICU work) and have fallen in love with it. I have expanded my tool chest and have a makita track saw and recently noted there was a variable speed setting on it. What guide do you utilize to change that setting? I have had it on 6 since I got the saw and never even thought to change it. I did finally follow your advice and upgrade my blade with a CMT finish 36 tooth carbide blade and what a difference cutting through hardwoods. Thanks, Viyeka Anyway, i wanted to ask how you would go about cleaning mouse droppings on your wood. The cdc (because of the hantavirus scare) suggests using bleach and then wiping but it seems harsh on raw wood stock. I don’t want the bleach to penetrate too deep. I was thinking of spraying with a soapy solution and then gently wiping it off all my wood. What do you think? —vaibhav from chicago

Brians Questions: Hi guys! Long time listener, first time question-asker! Thanks very much for the show. I've been listening for a few years now and love the no-nonsense, down to business approach of your show. I am a hobby woodworker, but have begun to get a few paying projects, which have been really fun and rewarding. One of the things that has forced me to do, as opposed to things I make for fun, for myself, or for gifts, is to do more design and modeling up front. I've gotten proficient enough with Fusion 360 to be able to create a 3D model that I can use to visualize for myself or show a client, and have most of what I need to build. What I've discovered about Fusion is that you can model a HUGE amount of detail. I've found that modeling detail down to the rabbits, dados and understanding and determing the detail of each joint to be very helpful. I recently built a few large cabinets out of plywood using rabbet and dado joinery. I did not go to the trouble of actually modeling each rabbit and dado. When I was buidling it, I wished I had. A while back I built a cabinet from plans and they modeled ever rabbit, dado, hole... and I found it to be very helpful. I was also thinking that modeling all that might take alot of time and not be worth the effort. All of that is just an example for context. My question actually is, How much detail do you go into when you model/design your own pieces and what are some of the reasons you do the level of detail you do? Thanks again for the great podcast an I'm excited to hear your answers! Jeff I just got into a shop with power for more than lights for the first time in several years, and I dug out several routers that I couldnt say no to, even though I was exiled to hand tools at the time. Between those and the ones I had before, I've probably got a half-dozen of various sizes; enough, I think, to leave a couple in permanent setups. Just wondering, how many routers do you guys have, and how do to maximize their utility in your own work flows (with permanent setups, favorite jigs, etc)? Scott Guys Questions: Hello from Alabama, I am in the planning stages of building a dispenser for boxed wine. I have some highly figured walnut that I would like to use for the side panels. However, the pieces I have are fairly thin. I am considering using 1/4 inch plywood as a core between 2 pieces of the thin walnut for each panel to prevent warping in the future. The plywood that I have on hand is currently somewhat warped itself. My question is: If I use this plywood as a core and apply sufficient clamping pressure during the glue up, should this panel remain flat? Or would you use MDF or HDF instead? Also, would you recommend any other glue rather than water resistant PVA? Thank you all for doing the Podcast. Woodshop Life is the BEST woodworking podcast out there, and I appreciate each of you for taking time out of your busy schedules to provide this service to all of us. Juston (Wild Chicken Woodworks) 1) I just drove down to Mississippi and met an old friend for the first time (if he's listening, he'll know who he is) to buy a Vacupress and associated gear. In this stuff, there was a flitch if cherry veneer (it was curled like a plane shaving from wing rolled, but appears really smooth, as in not wrinkled) and several starter packs of 3 sq/ft of some exotics (specifically satinwood, zebrawood, and rosewood, if interested). I'm super excited to put my first pump to work and have grand aspirations of masterpieces with figured exotics, but in the meantime, I don't know where to start. Do you guys have any recommendations? What were your first veneer projects? Scott Huy's Questions: Hi guys, thanks for your responses to my drum/belt sanding and tenon cutting questions a few months back. Here’s a hopefully fun one to think about: what is a tool that is no longer made or is no longer “in style” that you either can’t imagine working without or wish you had acquired when it was more readily available? Why? I always love hearing and learning about those “forgotten” tools and techniques that at some previous time were a normal part of the craft. Thanks! Michael Hello Gentlemen, I am a hobbyist woodworker, with a small shop nestled in the corner of my 2 car garage. I've been using a DeWalt contractor table saw for the past 12 years, and have gotten good enough results with it that I've never bothered to upgrade to anything bigger. However, the thing that bothers me most about this saw is the virtual lack of dust collection. Even though there's a dust collection port on the back under the blade, most of the dust drops straight to the floor. And I'm sick and tired of having to shop vac my entire garage after making even just a couple quick cuts. I think it's time to invest in something that can manage dust a bit better. My question is: what brand/model of table saw would you recommend that is (1) easily mobile (2) doesn't take up a large footprint, and (3) has the best dust collection? Because my shop is small, I do not have an actual dust collector. I've been using a 6.5 horsepower shop vac with a dust separator for all these years, and would prefer to stick with this setup for now if possible. Can you explain the pros and cons of using this setup with a table saw versus using an actual dust collector? If I need an actual dust collector to get the results I'm looking for with the new saw, what kind would you recommend to keep the cost and footprint low? Oh, and hopefully the saw would be under $1500, but could possibly stretch to $2000 as long as all the requirements are met. Thanks for your help, and thanks for providing the best woodworking podcast on the planet! Best, Matt

Brians Questions: Hello and greetings from Texas, I’m an amateur woodworker who may have bitten off a little more than I could chew. I started building full closet cabinets for my walk-in master closet, and at this point I’m too far in to turn back, so I’m learning as I go. All of the cabinet boxes are installed, and I’m now working on shelves and drawer fronts. My question is about face frames. I’ve seen a lot of people recommend assembling the full face frame first and then installing it as a unit, rather than attaching each rail and stile individually. What are the real advantages of building and installing the face frame as one piece versus installing it piece by piece? One complication in my situation is that my walls weren’t perfectly square when I started, and as a result some of my cabinets aren’t perfectly square either. I’m trying to figure out which approach will give me the best final result given those imperfections. Thanks for taking the time to read this, and for all the knowledge you put out there—it’s been a huge help on this project. Thank you, Casey Wood You Rather 1. The first question is about accuracy. What is your own degree of tolerance when it comes to measurements, without going crazy? I guess it depends on the project, but for example, when cutting panels to specific dimensions with a track saw, do you try to get the measurements down to the nearest 1/16th? nearest 1/32nd? 1/64th? 2. On a related note, the measuring marks on the ruler or parallel guides of course have a width themselves… Do you place your pencil or stop pointer just before the line/mark, in the middle of the line, or just after the line? Does it not matter as long as you’re consistent? I know this isn’t NASA, but I don’t want the project to ultimately look amateurish. Josh Guys Questions: First, thank you for answering my other questions. Guy points out that Rubio Monocoat is made for wood floors when others talk about using it on wood furniture. Is there an actual disadvantage or problem with using Rubio on fine furniture when you want a finish that can withstand the abuse that a floor gets? Thanks again for the great show! George 3. Any advice for staining blotchy baltic birch plywood with Gel stain and tips for finishing with water-based urethane topcoat? I have heard so many different opinions, from putting a slip coat of mineral spirits, to using preconditioner, to applying gel stain directly on the wood, etc. Josh Huys Questions: I am working on a large kitchen cabinet project and have come across a few questions I thought would make good discussion. Project includes 16 base cabinets, 14 uppers, range hood and a couple of custom spice racks, open shelves etc. Upper will have 14" upper uppers stacked on them with glass fronts. Lowers are almost entirely drawers. Carcasses are about done heading into face frames and drawers. -Ripping down face frame lumber. When batching out large amounts of 1 1/2" strips what is your preferred method. Table saw then sand? Table saw proud then plane? Table saw then drum sand? Will a bandsaw with ripping blade provide a nicer edge? Major concerns are efficiency and accuracy while avoiding saw marks that have to be hand sanded off. -Ever use a shaper to add dado on 8' strips of wood for drawer box parts? Wondering if there is a good way to setup the shaper with power feeder to run through all the strips then cut to length. Essentially making my own drawer blanks. Any other thoughts or recommendations when batching out large cabinet projects. Matt I have the Grizzly benchtop oscillating edge and spindle sander that I believe a couple of you have mentioned owning currently or in the past. I’m working on some oak glue-ups that are using some odd angles that will be template routed later. The problem I’m having is that when I use the edge sander to dial in these pieces my edges are getting slightly rounded over and becoming convex. I’d love to have a large disk sander but this is what I’m working with and I can’t figure out if it’s a tension or pressure issue or the oscillation is causing it… any help is greatly appreciated! Keep up the great work! Shawn

Brians Questions: I am getting ready to build a mission style entertainment center. This project will use what I'm told is arched pedestal legs which was used a lot by Gustav Stickley. I will be gluing up three 5 3/4"x 28" quarter sawn white oak blanks to make the legs. I will then route the curve using a compression bit and template which I made using the Shaper Origin. My question is what are some good methods to ensure there is a tight (almost invisible) line on the glue up of the blanks. The legs are going to be a major feature on this piece and I would hate for the lines to be visible. I've done glue ups for square legs before and have pretty good success although not perfect. I know grain match is a big deal but wanted to pick your guys brains on clamping methods, glue type and anything else you can suggest to ensure success. Yours is the best podcast on the net. Tom Young I recently upgraded from a 9” ryobi bench top bandsaw to a craftsman 10” Floor standing. I’d like to build a mobile base for it. My question is, how tall should the table be? Should it be elbow high? Waste high? Higher ? Lower? For context, I’m mostly a hand tool guy and, although I have a dinky table saw, I don’t use it much, favoring the bandsaw. I’ll do some light resawing and other more detailed work with it. Thanks guys and Guy. Love the show.Jason Guys Questions: I am working on a large kitchen cabinet project and have come across a few questions I thought would make good discussion. Project includes 16 base cabinets, 14 uppers, range hood and a couple of custom spice racks, open shelves etc. Upper will have 14" upper uppers stacked on them with glass fronts. Lowers are almost entirely drawers. Carcasses are about done heading into face frames and drawers. -Drawer box preferences or use cases for solid wood vs plywood with edge banding. I am leaning towards plywood due to number I need (38), being simpler to use prefinished ply then mill down rough cut. But it seems like cheating.....Large Pots and pans drawers 3/4" sides or 5/8" sides? -Drawer box construction when using overlay fronts. I do not have a dovetail jig. I may end up just pocket screwing them which is what I have done in the past but I wanted to add an upscale touch. I tried my domino with Sipo dominoes, pin nailed the box together first and then put two 5x30 dominoes in. To me the hole created was not that tight with the domino, didn't look nice. I see some YouTube experts make it seem easy, any experience or thoughts? Also thought of using drawer lock bit on the new to me shaper I just picked up but no experience yet. (Grizzly 3hp) Thoughts or preferences? Any other thoughts or recommendations when batching out large cabinet projects. Matt Hola Y'all, I have been listening to y'all for a little over a year, and woodworking for two years. Best Podcast on the interwebs! I was recently gifted a used Grizzly Go555 14" 1HP. I have never owned a Bandsaw and I want to use it mainly for resawing. I was told it is working fine, but I prefer to "Trust, but Verify". My questions are: 1. What tune-up/preventive maintenance should I do immediately? 2. What upgrades should I do for resawing hardwood? Thanks so much! Peace, Love, and Sawdust Norris Sebastian Grandad's Workshop Huy's Questions: Hey guys! I am a full-time journeyman carpenter and I work in the commercial sector around the Indianapolis area. Currently working at the new IU Health Hospital downtown. I’ve been doing carpentry professionally for nearly 9 years. Almost half of a year ago, I decided to purchase a 4x4 shapeoko 5 pro and got involved with learning about cnc. As friends and family found out about my new acquired skill, I’ve been asked to make various types of wood related projects-some requiring cnc and some that don’t. I have a decent amount of handheld power tools and jobsite tools I’ve acquired through the years. Thankfully those tools have helped me in completing non-cnc related projects but my problem is the lack of woodworking tools and equipment at my disposal. Many times I’ve turned down projects due to not having the right tools. Other times I’ve taken extra steps to complete tasks, but had I just had the right tool, it could’ve been a breeze. I want to have a nice wood shop in my barn eventually but not sure how to prioritize my wants and needs. Considering trading the cnc to instantly increase my wood shop tool budget and maybe revisiting it in the future. With a focus on increasing my wood working tools and building up my shop—What are some upgrades/ tool trades/ must-have-tools to kickstart my wood shop? What tools should I get rid of? Tools at my current disposal/ 4x4 shapeoko 5 pro, a dw 8-1/4” table saw, dw 735 planer, dw 10” miter saw, Bosch random orbital sander, metabo belt sander , ridgid oscillating spindle sander, central machine drill press, various dw drills/ impacts/ saw zalls/ oscillator/ hammer drill/ jig saw/ circular saw etc. Tools that could’ve made my life easier in the past- a jointer, band saw, track saw, drum sander, router table, etc Thanks, Holden P.s. My dad and I carpool together during the work week and love listening to the podcast-we especially have come fond of Guy’s no bs, straightforward attitude. Keep up the good work! Korey from Independence, KY again. I was thinking about getting radial arm saw to use exclusively for dados. I have never seen a radial arm saw in person. They can be found very cheaply on Facebook marketplace and space in not an issue for me. Do you think it would be worth it and can you use it to cut dados safely. What are some other good uses for a radial arm saw. Thank you and keep up the good work. Korey

Guys Questions: I am going to be adding a 25/50 drum sander to my shop. I can’t afford a powermatic so it is between the Jet and Laguna Supermax. I went to AWFS this past year to see them in person and Jet was not at the show and Laguna only brought their large tools. I called one of the nationwide woodworking stores that sells both brands and asked the employee which he thought was better and his response was “ they are both great tools, but if you have a problem with either one of them Jet will take care of the problem immediately, and Laguna will eventually take care of it but it will take a while”. Laguna also charges a $199 shipping fee where as Jet does not. I would appreciate any advice on which one you would recommend. I always look forward to listening to the podcast. Keep up the great work gentlemen! Tom Hello Fellas On my third round of listening to all your episodes. Thanks for all you contribute to the community. I am getting ready to move my shop from the garage to the basement. I want to keep the dust down to a minimum. I was looking at getting a Grizzly T10113 - Universal Overarm Blade Guard for Table Saws. Have you used or this or something similar. It is very pricey do you think it's worth the money. If not do you have any alternatives. Thank you and keep up the good work Korey Griffin, Independence KY When is a drawer too wide, specifically for under mount slides? I keep seeing these huge kitchen drawers that look to be almost 36-48" wide. How do they account for the large amount of weight that could potential be in these drawers. Do you guys have any experience using the blum tandem stabilization bars? They state they can be used up to 53" but that seems widely wide. How would you go about building drawers that are over 36" wide? Jesse Huys Question: Hi Woodshop Life Podcast Team, Thanks for all the great content—new woodworker here (not a cheap hobby by any means and I mostly blame you guys for this), I went in deep with about 50K in tools but so worth it as I love the idea of building things for people that they will have when I'm gone. I'm a Power Engineer by trade, and I learn a ton from the podcast. Quick question: I’m in Sylvan Lake, Alberta (-40C to +35C weather) and store a decent hardwood stockpile (Walnut, Wenge, Maple/Figured Maple, Zebrawood, Rose Woods—kiln-dried from a reputable Calgary seller) in a 14’ x 10’ room in the back of my heated oversized 3-car garage. Winter RH is usually ~22–25% and summer can swing much higher. I could add a small humidifier in the storage room but that's about it. Storage room has air flow, in floor heat and wood is sitting off the concrete stored vertical on ends. Whole home humidity control is hard to achieve in Alberta without creating a lot of condensation on the windows in winter months which is not good. So we just except the cracked bleeding skin during the winter months. Would you leave it alone and accept seasonal humidity movement, or try to hold the storage room around ~35% RH? If you would control it, what’s a practical target range? Part B - Is cutting wood stored at 22% RH a good idea - I assume it will swell so much in the summer months and assume 22% is way to low to store wood long term over a couple years. Thanks for the wicked podcast - I'd love to come on, I'd have so many questions during each show. Thanks! Trenton (Sylvan Lake, AB I started a stripping project of my redwood door. It’s old old old! So I am trying to be thoughtful of the contours and the soft wood. I need some guidance since the paint is fighting me and Ive kind of hit a wall. Ian I have another closet door that my kids have forcebly pulled the screws from the hinge. Not sure how to approach fixing the holes for screws other than cutting a chunk out of the door and glueing and sanding a new piece in. Any thoughts would be helpful. Ian

Brians Questions: My sister and brother-in-law would like to recruit/hire me to install/build built-in bank of drawers and shelves for them for their new home. The only relatable experience I have with this type of woodworking is building a face frame cabinet and constructing some under the bed drawer storage, each of which I have done exactly one time. The remainder of my woodworking experience has involved making small knick-knacks such as cutting boards, boxes, etc. Considering your experience with built-in shelving and closets, I was hoping you could lend me your expertise in regards to the following questions: 1. What's the easiest way to go about coming up with accurate calculations for the amount of materials I'll need? I might need a very dumbed down explanation. 2. How do you price projects like this? Do you estimate the time it will take and give the customer a set price, or do you use a time + materials structure? I want to help my sister do this for significantly less than she would pay someone else, but I also don't want to be committing an undetermined amount of my time for free. Thanks in advance for all your help. Zach Owens I have a question about Sawstops and the brake cartridge. I recently tripped my brake last night after changing from a Forest Woodworker blade to a Diable blade. Not sure why it happened. They are both 10" blades. Any suggestions for how to prevent this from happening in the future? Mark Guys Questions: I've had this question in my mind for a few months now. How do I know when I'm qualified and ready to teach others how to woodwork? For context, I am a teacher by trade, and have only been woodworking for about 2 and a half years. I am single and have no family, so I do have a lot of time to myself. I primarily use hand tools though I occasionally break out my track saw for sheet goods. I don't have any experience with power tools like a table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer. My dovetails range from "functional-but-ugly" to "decent", I can chop out mortises with chisels, I can joint my edges with my hand plane, and I can get my surfaces to be "flat enough". With all that said, is there a point where you know you can effectively teach others how to woodwork? Down the line, I wouldn't mind being able to teach some hand tool woodworking classes. I do want to hold myself to a high standard and to be able to teach everyone proper technique without seriously hurting themselves. Thanks in advance for your input, Jose 1. Over the past a couple years I have gotten spoiled by building with a bunch of rift sawn white oak veneer, large slabs of walnut where I can cut parts out as I see fit. Now I can't go back to flat sawn boards!! All I see is the glue line, cathedrals that don't match, or kinda do and just a jumble of boards that just kinda go together. Am I doomed to only hunt for the straightest best grain board? How do you guys incorporate flat sawn (cathedrals) and other wildly grain boards into your work? Or are you only trying to select straight grain for table tops, and use flat sawn stuff for lesser seen parts? Jesse Huys Questions: My question is about moving my shop. My wife and I are moving from California to Washington - about 800 miles north of us. I'm going to upgrade from a 1 car garage shop to probably twice the space. We're going to hire professional movers but I'm wondering how to prepare and ship certain machines. The ones I think most about are the Sawstop, the Festool Kapex 120, the DeWalt 735 planer, and my Laguna 14" bandsaw also with wheels. The Sawstop has an extension table. Would you remove that or let the professional movers move the fully assembled saw? I would remove the blade and cartridge. How about the Kapex, planer, and Laguna bandsaw? Any special precautions or recommendations there? For my planes and handsaws am thinking lots of bubble wrap and packed into boxes. Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks for the great show guys! Ron Novato, CA Hi guys, I am relatively new to the podcast so maybe it has been talked about before, but I had a question about Maloof inspired rocking chairs. Have any of you attempted making a chair with a Maloof inspired design? If so, did you use/purchase a pattern and do you have any recommendations? I have found several patterns out there, but some of them are a bit pricey and I don’t want to commit to a specific pattern without doing my research. I consider myself an intermediate woodworker and this would by far be the most difficult project I have attempted so any advise is appreciated. Zach

Brians Questions: ​Hello gentlemen, ​I love your podcast. I appreciate the care and detail you put into maintaining a consistent format and clean, listenable audio. Having been a radio production director in a former career, I loathe most podcast audio, so your effort to provide a professional listening experience is apparent. ​In my brief time as a woodworker, I’ve found it difficult to source hardwood. I don't have any woodworking stores nearby—the closest is several hours away. Buying from private parties feels unreliable, and I strongly prefer kiln-dried wood. Furthermore, online ordering is expensive, even for small stock. ​So far, the only hardwood I’ve been able to work with was purchased from big-box stores or salvaged from pallets. ​Do you have any advice for sourcing hardwood in my Southern California area? ​Thank you! ​Todd from Barking Beavers I’m curious your take on shop lighting. I’ve got 12’ ceilings in my garage and I’m on thinking the lights could be far away. Maybe I should focus on task lighting instead or possibly lowering lights on chain but that is a less appealing option. Tyler -What are your best strategies on negotiating time with the wife to be in the shop? Brian Guys Questions: I’ve been listening to your podcast on and off for a couple years now. I know I haven’t listened to all the episodes but I’m trying to work my way through them on my commute to work. I appreciate the podcast, I’ve learned a lot. Thanks for doing it guys! I’m a weekend warrior, with an old craftsman contractor saw. Well maybe not that old, 20 years. Not old enough to be really sturdy built but it’s been a good saw. I would like to upgrade to a cabinet saw. I’m interested in getting a Sawstop for the safety aspect as well as I’ve heard they are well built saws. One convenient feature on my Craftsman saw is it has a built in router table on the table saw wing. I can get the same setup on the Sawstop. I’m not a professional wood worker but I do want a good quality table saw and router table set up. My questions are: 1) Will the Sawstop be a substantial upgrade to my Craftsman contractor saw or should I consider another brand? 2) Do you know anything about the Sawstop router table accessories such as the router lift and downdraft box. Are they good quality components, anything I should be cautious about. 3) What are the pros and cons to having the router table built into the table saw versus a stand alone router table? Would I be better off getting a stand alone router table? Thanks for the help! Appreciate the Podcast! Marty I recently purchased a shaper and power feeder to run mostly door profiles and other trim as well. It's been a huge upgrade from the router table, but I still get tear out if I try to mill for example a shaker style door in one pass (the long edge not the coping cut). I've seen videos of other guys running their shaper in reverse and cutting for profiles with a climb cut but ONLY WITH A POWER FEEDER. Would this be a case where you would be comfortable breaking the "never climb cut" rule if you had a power feeder in order to produce a cleaner edge? Thanks! Jared I would like to begin my first foray into veneering. I’m thinking a small table top for a side table or nightstand would be a good first project. How would you suggest a first time veneerer approach this—I don’t want to invest a lot into veneer specific tools (vacuum bags, etc), so any tips for using stuff already laying around the shop would be appreciated. Thanks for the great pod! Andrew

Brians Questions: I currently have a Sawstop PCS 1.75, an 8” Laguna spiral head jointer, a Jet two-stage dust collector, a Laguna 1412 bandsaw, a Bosch cabinet style router table, a Dewalt DW734 lunchbox planer, an entry-level CNC, a Festool ETS125, a Festool dust extractor and various smaller power tools. I’m not particularly happy with the stability, adjustability and fence on my Bosch router table and I feel like my planer isn’t giving my a consistent cut across its width. I’m thinking of upgrading either the router table to something with an Incra lift, or maybe a planer like the DW735 with helical head or similar. However, I’ve also been seriously considering a Festool Domino DF500. Lately I’ve been working on decorative boxes and small furniture like side tables and coffee tables. Who knows what’s next? What would you purchase next and what do you think would make the biggest difference in my woodworking? Thanks, Kevin Westbrooks Hey this is Brooks from BROOKS BOARDS in Utah, I really enjoy the podcast while I work on the shop, and a lot of my questions get answered, but I was hope maybe you could help me understand the best way to round over a board that is a curved shape like my longboards I make, when I use a bearing router bit the issue is that when you flip the board to route the other side where the bearing would ride along the wood it routed off so the roundover is un-even and usually a line is left over, would you guys have a potential solution to this? I would love your suggestion, thanks in advance you guys are awesome. Brooks Guys Questions: When making flat panel drawer fronts I keep running into drawer fronts that need to be just a little bigger than my 8" jointer. Say 9-10" tall. Most of the rough stock I buy is 8-8.5". In this case I have two options, use two boards of similar grain and try to hide the glue joint which becomes a straight grain only situation. Or make a veneer drawer front with some wider stock if i can find it. How do all these European cabinet makers do it with large flat drawer fronts. Do they all just have a 12-16" jointers? Jesse Hi y’all! I’m Chris. I love your podcast and listen to it while I drive for work. I am on my second round of listening while I wait for the new episode to drop! I will be proposing to my fiance soon and I am making a ring box for her engagement ring. I am going to use White Oak and I have seen several videos of guys using a rub on finish that slightly darkens the wood and leaves a minimal sheen. I am wondering what finish you would use for durability, to darken the wood, and leave no sheen! Thanks and love the show! Chris Huys Questions: I have a Makita Track Saw which I purchased a couple of years ago. I use it only for cutting full sheets of plywood and melamine, mostly plywood. Although I haven't used it all that much the Makita brand saw blade is not making clean cuts and leaving burn marks on the sheet goods. It's a 48 tooth blade measuring 165mm x 20mm. I cleaned the blade hoping that would solve the issue but it hasn't. The cut quality is the same. I've considered sending the blade out for sharpening but not sure if it's worth it. I'm thinking my money might be better spent buying a new blade. I could always buy a new blade and have the Makita blade resharpened and use it only for cutting melamine. I'm sure track saw blades are not all made equal so I'm looking for your recommendation for a new blade based on your knowledge and experience. I'm interested in saw blade brands as well as the type of blade such as the number of teeth for making clean cuts in plywood. Looking forward to your comments and thanks for hosting such an informative podcast. Jack Francis Hey guys, I’m a long time listener and continue to learn with every episode. You’re one of only two podcasts I listen to cause there’s no stupidness and you just talk woodworking and don’t feel the need to waste the listeners time talking about what you had for lunch or whatever other personal garbage every other woodworking podcast seems to delve into. I have a very simple question. Last week I was routing a dado in some oak with a quarter inch straight bit. Nothing unusual about the setup and nothing I hadn’t done a hundred times before. This time, however, the bit managed to come loose from the collet and came up through the work piece and essentially ruined it. Has this happened to you guys? Should I assume that I just didn’t tighten it enough? Should I be constantly checking it as I’m batching parts? This one bugged me cause I don’t feel like I know how to prevent it in the future. Any advice would be appreciated! Bill

Brians Questions: How do I take my woodworking skills to the next level, short of attending an expensive workshop? Up to this point most of what I've learned has been from either your podcast or YouTube videos (special thanks to Guy for all of his router table videos.) I have quite a few small projects under my belt, such as cutting boards, boxes, and a face frame cabinet. I'd like to move on to building small furniture pieces, but I don't feel that I have the skills to figure out how to design or build something of that scale without some sort of tutorial. I'm sure there are tons of videos on YouTube showing how to build coffee tables and the like, but I don't want to just copy and replicate someone else's design. Most of the videos I've come across have also been using pocket holes and big box store lumber, which isn't really the direction I want to go. What I want to learn are the skills and techniques that go into building furniture so that I can put my own spin on them. If I tried to build a coffee table right now I'm sure it would just be a flat panel with square straight legs. Thank you in advance for whatever suggestions and insights you are able to offer me. I appreciate all the time and effort you guys put into this show. I hope your projects are going well, and I hope that you're doing even better.. Zach Owens Throughout your time woodworking, have you ever hit a point where you lost your motivation for woodworking? If so, how did you reignite your passion and get back into it? Zach Owens Guys Questions: I appreciate the podcast and look forward to new episodes, keep up the great work. Here is the background: I have attached a picture of the front of my workshop. I have the Tablesaw/planer and jointer in a square with a poweratic 1 3/4 hp single stage dust collector with "turbo cone" separator:) servicing all three using a 10 foot flexible hose with magnetic couplers on the flexible hose and at individual machine ports. This makes aligning dust collection very quick. I am very satisfied with performance at planer and jointer. I still wear an apron and safety glasses when using the tablesaw because of the dust coming off the top of the blade. I have sealed the cabinet of the saw as much as possible. I have used an over blade collector by shark guard which captures most if not all of this dust, however, I remove this most of the time because it interferes with so many operations. Here is the question: Do you belive there would be a noticable improvement in dust collection,at the tablesaw in particular, by upgrading the dust collector to a product like an Oneida Dust Gorilla or Supercell? I would still like to use the flexible hoses vs. hard piping to support being able to reconfigure the shop in future. Every piece of equipment is readily movable. Thanks, keep up the great podcast. Dave@ Xcuse4tools Custom Woodwork I’m a hobbyist furniture maker working in a home shop. I have several kiln-dried ash boards that have visible insect tracks and wormholes — no active infestation, just the character left behind. I’m building a benchtop seat from this material and I want to lean into that look instead of hiding it. What finishing approach would you recommend to best highlight and preserve the insect damage — things like filling the voids, stabilizing the soft areas, and choosing a topcoat — so it looks intentional and high-end rather than defective? Thank you again for the content. Catching up on old shows though I cannot locate the older shows on Spotify! Have a great week. Greg Wolf's Den Homestead Huys Questions: Hi guys, My house came with a work bench when I bought it. It's nice and sturdy but the Masonite top had seen better days so I'm replacing it with a piece of 3/4" plywood. I just took the top off, and realized that the structure underneath the top isn't totally flat, up to about a 1/8 inch dip in some places. (picture below for reference -- it's about this uneven for the full length). I have a couple of questions: 1) How flat does this need to be? Will the plywood on top make these gaps irrelevant? I understand that a very flat top is important for assembly purposes, although I didn't really notice a problem with the old top. 2) How would you go about flattening this? I have taken down a couple of high spots with my #4 bench plane, but doing the whole table would be quite an undertaking. 3) My plan is to nail the new top on, router the edges flush, and add a coat or two of Danish oil since I have a jug of that lying around. But I'm curious if any of you would do differently. Do any of you use benches with replaceable tops? Thanks! Max My question is this. I own a high end furniture and cabinet shop and to provide quality I prefer to build my drawer boxes from solid wood (not the bottoms those are plywood). I box joint the corner joints, but my question is on wood expansion. 1st - when milling the sides to 5/8 thickness I sometimes end up with a 5" wide board. Usually this would cause cupping but it seems like the corner joints locks everything in place. Would you build with wider boards or cut it into say 2-3" strips and glue back together before milling? 2nd - a lot of drawers now a days can easily be 8-9" deep and up to 14" deep for some of the largest drawers I build. With this width the expansion and contraction of the drawer box concerns me, especially once you fix the drawer fronts. I mount drawer fronts with the standard 4 screws in each corner and haven't had issues but I'm curious your thoughts. The drawers are finished with a few coats of water based conversion varnish. Thanks! Jared

Brian's Questions: Gentlemen, I thoroughly enjoy your podcast, so thank you for all that you do. What is you opinion on dog holes in the workbench? If you use them, how? Include favorite accessories. Thank you again. Josh What is the best way to accurately put dog holes in your workbench without buying a $300 one time template tool? Josh Guy's Questions: Hi guys, Thanks for the awesome podcast, I learn new things with every show and for that I am so appreciative! I’m in the early stages of designing/building a dining table made from quarter sawn ash (just purchased a bunch of 4/4 lumber). I’ve designed the table based on a picture my wife showed me for inspiration. It is a trestle style table in which the two uprights are 16” wide by 4” thick. The ‘feet’ or ‘bases’ will be 30” wide by 6” thick, while the ‘trestle tops’ which support the table top will be 34” wide by 6” thick. The thickness of these trestles concerns me both in how much they are going to weigh, and how much material they are going to require. I’ve read about the strength of lock miter joints and am intrigued by the idea of glueing up a panel and essentially creating a hollow ‘box’ for the upright portion (boards would run vertically). I’ve read that these types of joints are very strong and I imagine they would be sufficient for this application (correct me if I’m wrong). I also like that they may give the appearance of using ultra thick 4” lumber. My question is whether you believe there will be enough wood movement in these hollow uprights to cause concern, as they will be constrained by both the feet and tops of the trestles? I just don’t have enough anecdotal experience to have a good feel for how much movement is likely to occur. Are there any good “rule of thumbs” regarding how much movement is expected to occur? I know there are a million variable (humidity swing, plain sawn vs quarter sawn, species, etc.) Thanks for your consideration and response to my question! Evan Hi, I recently upgraded my benchtop planer from a straight-knife Ridgid model to an Oliver 10045 with a helical head. I was excited by all the reviews raving about the ultra-smooth finish, but I've been disappointed. I'm getting noticeable scalloping from the inserts, even after removing them all, thoroughly cleaning the inserts and seats, and properly re-torquing them with a torque wrench. It's still requiring way more sanding: starting with 80 grit (which takes forever to remove the scallops), then 120 grit (longer than with my old planer), before progressing normally. My old straight-knife Ridgid needed far less sanding overall. From my research, this scalloping seems pretty normal with standard helical heads. I've heard one temporary workaround is to run boards through 2-3 extra passes at the final thickness setting, offsetting or skewing the board slightly each time to better overlap the cutter paths and reduce the scalloping (making sanding easier). I plan to try that soon. I was saving for Grizzly helical-head jointer and planer upgrades, but now I'm worried about the same increased sanding time. A few questions: Is noticeable scalloping typical with most helical-head planers, including Grizzly and Oliver models? I've read that the Silent-Power spiral cutterblock on the Hammer A3 series produces a much smoother surface with minimal ripple or scalloping, requiring far less sanding than standard helical heads. Is that your experience? I'm now leaning toward a Hammer A3-31 combo machine down the road. I wanted separate jointer and planer for better workflow and time savings, but I can't deal with doubling my sanding time. For those with 12" combo machines like the A3-31, do you ever regret not going for a 16" model (e.g., A3-41) for the extra width capacity? Thanks for any insights. You guys are my go-to for real-world tool advice! Jeffery Hiughes Huy's Questions: Gentlemen, First let me say how much I appreciate your podcast for it's practical woodworking advice. I have a comment and question. The comment is in response to the podcast of yours that I listened to today regarding the future of reclaimed wood. I wonder if the future will include recycled wood products designed with the look, feel, and workability (or close) of natural wood? Just a thought. Anyway, here is my question: My workshop is an unheated 3rd bay of a garage. It is not insulated. I use a shop vac in conjunction with Home Depots dustopper for dust collection. Better than nothing but not perfect. The cold is a deterrent to want to work out there and am wondering about safe budget conscious heating options. What are the safety considerations to take into account (dust, fumes, other?) I have a Mr. Buddy Propane Heater that has some nice safety features but don't know if it's safe to use. Do you have any recommendations on how to safely heat up a workspace? Thank you. James Aydelotte (aid-a-lot) Hello great podcasters, and fine woodworkers. :-) I am looking to replace the "Deluxe" fence on my 18" Jet bandsaw, since it is not parallel to the blade but is to the table, isn't adjustable, and will no longer clamp tightly to the rail. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement bandsaw fence that makes it easy to resaw and cut small pieces. Also, I am looking for one that is adjustable to ensure it is parallel to the blade. One under $200 would be ideal. Thank you, gentlemen! George

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Since my work typically uses traditional joinery, I cut a lot of tenons. I’ve tried all kinds of methods, but I am really looking for that one method that works for all size boards (cutting bedrail tenons on the table saw isn’t going to happen) and is quick to setup – something that corresponds to the ease and simplicity of cutting mortises using my floor standing mortiser: using your layout lines on the workpiece, you walk up to the machine and start cutting. Easy. For that reason, I really gravitate to the idea of using a radial arm saw with a dado stack for tenons. Norm makes it look so simple: with layout lines already on the board, simply set it against the fence and set your depth of cut, and zip zip, flip, zip, and done (insert Guy’s sound effects for simple operations here). No clamps (unless it’s a small piece), no moving long unwieldy parts across a table, no complicated jigs. And best of all, you see the layout line while you make the cut – it’s not upside down as in a table saw or router table. It looks so simple, and easily a one-size fits all if you have the floorspace for a dedicated machine. But I know radial arm saws have fallen out of favor. I hear about the danger of the saw “walking” toward the operator (can’t you just stand to the side? It can only go so far, right?), and perhaps even more vexing, they are really only available used – and I don’t have time to tinker with vintage machines, as fun as that’d be in retirement one day. I’ve heard that the ubiquitous Craftsman machines on FB Marketplace and Craigslist have a lot of deflection and the bearings and tracks the saw rides in usually didn’t wear well with age, and that the real old DeWalt’s are the best. But again, I’m hesitant to buy something that old without having the time or knowledge to refurbish it. But maybe a week unpaid to refurbish one is worth the long-term labor savings I’d get? An alternative I’ve imagined is a router fixture (possibly even as a stand-alone table), where the router rides along a fixed fence and atop a flat reference surface, and where the workpiece is placed under that surface. Using the same router, bit and fence setup every time, I’d have reference marks on the fixture that help align the workpiece’s layout marks for consistent results. I’d walk up, insert the workpiece, align it and clamp it, set my router depth and route the shoulder of one face and then the edge facing me (yes, the router has to be held horizontal for this edge), and then route the additional meat left at the end of the tenon (if any) - then pull the piece out, flip it, align it, readjust depth if needed and route the other face and edge. The idea is to mimic the action and simplicity of the radial arm saw as close as possible, where the cutting tool is what moves rather than the workpiece, and the workpiece is quickly and easily aligned using its layout marks without complicated one-off jigs. My questions: Is using a radial arm saw for this task as wonderful as it looks? Is it worth the time likely needed to get one reliably working? Given the safety concerns I hear, as well as the commitment required of an old machine, which of the two alternatives above would you go with? Again, with the amount of tenons but of varying kind I do, I want something easy and simple and consistent from project to project – just walk up to the machine and, referencing layout marks on the piece, start cutting. Thanks! Michael Do you guys use anything in your shop that is not intended or marketed for wood workers? Right now my favorite is a fabric cutting mat, i used it once to measure the angle and length of a step stool and it has lived on my MFT ever since, it covers the holes nicely and it’s pretty satisfying bringing small pieces of wood to the mat to confirm measurements. Thanks you for a great show, Heywood Guys Questions: I have been driving more than usual for work and find myself listening to several episodes throughout the day. Thank you all for making my abnormal seat time enjoyable! I am contemplating purchasing a sliding table for my Harvey Cabinet saw, specifically the Harvey Compass ST-1500. Do any of you have any experience or insight with these types of "add-on's" versus a dedicated machine? Would this be a valuable tool for breaking down sheet goods to final dimensions instead of a track saw? I have used a track-saw in the past and do see how valuable it is, but for my situation, I would prefer to manuver large sheets through the table saw. Thank you, Nick Halverson Hi guys I have listened to all your podcasts and thank you for all the great material. I have a couple of questions about a walnut desk I am making for my wife. I was wondering what is a good wood choice for the drawer sides? And can I use that wood on all four sides with dovetails and then glue a piece of walnut on the front so it appears as a half blind dovetail and if so how thick can that front piece of walnut be? Thank you enjoy the podcast while driving tractor on the farm. Paul Huys Questions: I am a new woodworker and have built a few furniture pieces. I've been hooked into your podcasts. I always have you on on my commute. I've learnt a ton from all three of you. Keep up the great work. My wife has asked me to build a coffee table inspired from the following: https://www.potterybarn.ca/products/palisades-wood-coffee-table/?subGroupId=palisades-wood-coffee-table-SPAF-color-remainder&group=1&sku=706535 I'm building it from white ash. The top and shelf are 3/4 stock and the legs are laminated from 1 3/4 inch board. I have the legs and the panels already done. I'm going to build up the edges with the extra length that I already cut from both end grain and side grains of the panels (I have 8 matching strips one for each side) As you can see from the link above this table has no aprons and the panels are attached directly to the legs while being enclosed by the legs fully. Even the top is enclosed and the legs end grain would show. Here are my questions: 1) I plan to glue the panels on one axis to one side of the legs( let's call it north south axis) and the other axis is all going to be hardware that allows for wood movement. The idea is that since nothing but the glued panels restrict the legs the expansion/contraction of the panels would just transfer to the legs and they can move with it. How crazy am I? I spent days debating this with ChatGPT. Am I misunderstanding how it will work? 2) I'm now in the step of cutting square 5x5 in notches in each corner of both panels. But I'm very concerned about accuracy. It feels like this setup is not very forgiving. For example if I make the smallest errors on the top and bottom of the same leg it may throw off the whole table where I might have gaps between the leg and panel later. I also have no band saw or a jigsaw. I want to tackle this with a track saw ( also have a table saw but this table is 42x42 and my sawstop jobsite isn't good to handle this size). Many thanks! Amin Hey guys, love the show, I've been meaning to send this question this question in for 3-4 years but I'm always listening in the car and forget by the time I get to my computer. So, a few years ago I moved and added a bandsaw to my shop so I could start resawing lumber and my first project to incorporate that was a humidor. The resawing went great, but my table saw was out of alignment, so the mitered corners on the box looked terrible with gaps on the outside corners. To fix that I decided to add a contrasting strip along all the edges. The carcass is birdseye maple and I added padauk by routing out a 3/32" square on all outside corners, added 1/8" strips of the padauk and then trimmed it flush. This looks great, but with one issue. The 4 vertical corners are all cross grain between the carcass and the corner banding, so seasonally while the box sides move, the banding doesn't change length, so it either protrudes or retracts a bit (maybe 1/32") from the top and bottom. This is only a cosmetic issue on this box but I was wondering how I could plan for this in the future, as I could see a situation where all the movement is at the lid side and prevents it from fully closing which could compromise the seal on a humidor. Some of my thoughts were only gluing the middle portion of the banding down, only doing this when the carcass is a veneer over a more stable substrate, or sucking it up and getting better at mitered box corners and not needing this at all. I have some pictures from this build at https://imgur.com/a/humidor-build-iaXKQLI Jonathan

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Have been listening to your podcast for awhile now and the more I listen to more questions come to mind. Here is my current one for a walnut waterfall bench I’m working on. The dimensions are approx 58”L x 18”W x 16”D. How should I join a shelf to this bench where the grain flows continuously from the legs up through the bench top? The shelf will also be a glued up panel with the grain running the same direction as the bench top. If I attach the shelf to the inside faces of the legs using a mortise and tenon joint, do I need to account for wood movement? The legs, benchtop, and shelf are all 1.75” thick. I would assume that given they’re all the same thickness and technically the wood grain is in the same direction as the legs, just perpendicular, it would expand and contract together, and I could just glue the tenon. That said I don’t want to guess and hearing Guy talk about furniture exploding has me concerned. If wood movement is a concern then what’s the correct way to account for this movement? Should it be treated like a breadboard end with dowels through the tenons, installed through the bottom of the legs (the shelf sits 2 inches off the ground)? Or would it be better, and stronger, to use floating tenons/Dominos for this joint instead and just not glue the outside dominos and cut them loose to account for the expansion and contraction while gluing the center domino(s)? Thanks, Chayse Bell Thanks for the great podcast, I discovered your channel about a month ago and now listen all the time traveling to and from work. I've been woodworking a little over a year now and currently working on a dining table made from ash and have picked up all sorts of pearls that have helped with the glue up, apron design, finishing, etc., so thank you for all that. This question is directed to Brian, as he has mentioned that his shop is in his basement. I currently work out of my two car garage that I share with my wife's car. We just built the house in 2024 and I'm kicking myself that I didn't insulate the garage. These cold Northern Indiana days are making working in the garage pretty uncomfortable. I know I could just insulate it, but HVAC isn't attached to the garage either so to make it truly comfortable would be a big job/cost. So, Brian, can you share a little more about the layout/design of your basement shop? E.g. was it a room that existed that you converted into the shop or you framed the room specifically for a shop? How do you take extra precautions to make sure your family isn't affected by dust, as this is my primary concern. Obviously, I know of dust collection and dust filters, but it still concerns me to think I'd be working in the basement. Do you have anything you wish you did differently? We have an unfinished basement that is very open, so the sky would be the limit for me in the future before we finish it. Thanks, Evan Guys Questions: Somewhat recently I made a gift for my wife using White oak. I had predetermined that for a finishing schedule I wanted to first apply Danish oil, then seal it with shellac, and minwax performance series varnish for a top coat. I ran into an issue when I began to finish the piece. Not knowing a thing about wood porosity, I liberally applied watco Danish oil, and as a result I had a big problem with seepage. Now, my research had cautioned me that I would need to keep checking on the piece periodically for the next several hours after application to wipe up any seepage that came up. Even so, you this went on for so long that it became an issue. Two full days after application I was still wiping up seepage. I would wipe the piece down before bed at night, and when I'd check it in the morning there would be spots on the surface that took a considerable amount of effort to buff out. I couldn't keep up with it, and after a few days the surface was covered in spots, which meant that I had to start over. As I mentioned previously, I could not find any information online regarding how to deal with this problem. Just to see what would happen, I decided to try aiming a heat gun at the work piece after it had been drying for a couple of hours. This worked phenomenally, and I could not have been more thrilled. Of course the heat didn't dry out the wood any faster or anything, but what it did do was vastly accelerate the seepage process. The oil was rapidly drawn up to the surface of the wood, where I could wipe it away, and after treating both sides in this manner for a total of perhaps 10 minutes it seemed that all of the excess oil had been drawn out. I wiped the work piece down and had no more issues. Of, like with any application involving a heat gun, I had to keep it moving, otherwise it would start to bake the spots of oil onto the surface. Anyways, I just thought this was a neat trick that might come in handy with oil finishes if seepage is ever a huge issue. I hope you guys found this interesting. Zach Owens Hello from Chico, California! I have recently started listening to y'all's podcast while researching inspiration for reconfiguring and refining my workspace. I thank Guy for highlighting the importance of drawers, I realized that I previously had none. I am a hobbyist woodworker looking for advice on air filtration for my two car garage shop. It is approximately 3960 cubic feet, 22' x 20' x 9'. While working, the garage door and access door (detached garage with no climate control) is usually open, weather permitting, and tend to have good airflow and supplement with a box fan when needed. I have a Harbor Freight 2hp Dust Collector for my machines, cabinet saw, planer, jointer, and router table and do feel that this my be slighty under powered for my system. I do notice a fair amount of fine dust suspended in the air after milling operations and breaking down sheet goods on the table saw and a noteable layer of dust across the entire shop. I think that adding an air filter could help reduce fine particulate and could potentially allow me to work with doors shut when it is too hot or too cold. Do you think that adding an air filter makes a significant addition to air quality or should I look further into optimizing dust collection? If you feel an air filter is a worthwhile addition, what would you reccomend for an approximately 4,000 cubic foot shop? I have been looking at the WEN 3410 unit due to claimed CFM and cost. I have also contemplated building one with a second hand blower from an old furnace. I am mechanically inclined and competent with electrical. I also feel that timers and variable speeds are not needed. I would also add that whatever I decide, the garage is detached from the main house and there is a studio above that is rented out to a seperate individual and would like noise and resonance to be kept to a minimum. The only real estate I have available for air filtration is the ceiling. Thank you for your time. Nick Halverson Huys Questions: Longtime listener. Truly enjoy the podcast. I am considering upgrading my table saw to a contractor or cabinet model. The choice are really overwhelming. I get a lot of advice on different brands, phase of motor and should I buy new or used. Any advice appreciated. Greg I recently bought a small bandsaw mill (Woodmizer LX30) and am becoming an amateur sawyer, exclusively to supply lumber for my own projects. Once I have dried lumber to an acceptable moisture content, what is the best way to store a few thousand board feet? My kiln guy says I should store packs of dead-stacked lumber horizontally, wrapped in 6-mil plastic. That sounds like a pain. I'd prefer to forgo the plastic and store the lumber horizontally, on edge, in a rack, in my unheated pole barn - which, I should note, sometimes gets a wet floor in heavy rains. Then I'd bring pieces into my shop for a few days to acclimate before machining. What do you recommend for long-term lumber storage? Kyle

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Just a question to ponder about the future of our favorite material. As old buildings get torn down there seems to a great supply of reclaimed lumber for our current generation. But as we know this is a finite resource. So with that said will the next generation be turning to our generation’s slab furniture for their reclaimed lumber? Doug Hey! Sorry if this has already been addressed in a previous episode. I’m in upstate NY, and I have a full wood shop detached from my house. The woodshop is insulated, but the temperature changes outside are pretty much the max, 100 degrees in the summer, and it will live at 20 degrees in the winter. In the winter, should I keep materials I’m working on in my house, bring them out to the shop when I’m cutting, and then bring them back in? It seems excessive, but it's really huge temperature changes. I’m mostly dealing with walnut. Is the temperature the bigger issue, or is it really humidity? I could maybe install a heat pump, just yah know it's a lot of energy. If I went that route, do you have a recommendation for a temp I should keep materials at? Thanks again for making such a great show -Mohamed Guys Questions: Hello and thank you for the wonderful podcast. I was hoping for some insights on builds for high moisture environments. My fiancé and I just moved into our first house and need to update the bathroom vanity. Rather than spend hundreds of dollars on a a shoddy big-box-store model, I would like to take a crack at building one myself. I have enough experience with woodworking and building cabinets that I feel confident with the actual construction, but am concerned about the high moisture environment. I plan on making a carcass out of prefinished plywood with face frames and drawer fronts out of a yet-to-be-determined species (likely red oak). What advice and considerations do you all have for these high moisture environments? Do I need to use special finishes or some sort of sealant for the hardwood components? Do I need to worry about sealing or finishing the edges of the plywood even though the faces are prefinished? Do I need any special considerations for moisture or even mold build up between the face frame and plywood carcass? Any and all advice on this is greatly appreciated Thanks as always! Andrew Hey Guys, I love your show. Hearing 3 sets of opinions with different levels of experience really helps me learn. I've heard so many different approaches to sanding that I'm coming to the experts for guidance. To what grit do you sand to for Oak, Walnut, Maple, and cherry. Do you think a planned or card scraped surface is better than a sanded surface? Does it take the finish just as well? Thanks for all you do! Ezra Huys Questions: Another question... I recently had a small tornado that took the roof off of my shop. As a result, all of my tools got wet and the power tools - table saw, jointer, band saw, drill press etc - all got wet and rusted. They've been in storage since March of this year. I have new shop being built and hope to have it done by the end of this month. What suggestions do y'all have in terms of getting the rust off of the tools and checking for any other possible water damage? Thanks. Ron Brewer I’m making a walnut bench that I want to route headboard sides (legs) on and I’m not sure how to go about it. I’m not sure if a straight edge/track with a router and at pointed round over bit would be the best route or if I should do it on the router table. I plan on using a 3/8” or 1/2” radius point cutting round over bit for the beading. The end two end panels are 16”x18” and 1.5” thick. I have a festool 1400 router and an Incra router table as possible options. Also, once I get these panels made what’s the best way to sand the beads since they come down to a tight point in the middle. Sanding seems like it would be a huge pain and not sure if the router bit would leave a good enough finish to apply finish without prep work. Thanks, Chayse

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hey all, great podcast, thank you for doing what you do. What are some favorite Christmas gifts to make with scrap wood? Specific context for me: been woodworking for a while, hobbyist, been giving gifts to people for years and now I've lost track of who has gotten what. Just trying to get some ideas for this year. Time is easier to give to a project than money. I also like the lathe for scrap projects. Have found a good glue up can make a good looking bowl. Follow up/more specific questions: What are some favorite scrap wood projects that are not kits from Rockler (or similar companies)? Other than a bowl, what are some other gifts that can come off the lathe? What are some non kitchen items to make from scrap wood? (I believe I've given too many cutting boards, charcuterie boards, cooking utensils over the years). Jim Hello friends, I haven't submitted a question in a hot minute, as the kids say, but I finally have a good one for you and it's regarding something I'm truly stumped about. After hitting you guys with question after question about, "How do I do _______ without a jointer or planer?" I finally got myself a thickness planer. It's louder than all hell, and it's nothing fancy, but I'm glad I have it. There's only one issue that I'm having with it, and I can't figure out what's causing it. When I'm getting ready to Mill down some stock, I first set the height of the planer blades so they aren't taking off any material at the start. The depth of cut indicator is at "0". I'll even send the board through with the blades at this height sometimes just to make sure the gauge is accurate. I then lower the blades by 1/64", aka a quarter turn of the handle. I send the piece of stock through, it takes off some material, whatever. So far, so good. Here's what's throwing me off: after I've fed that board through the planer, I can feed that same board right back through, with the blades still set at the same height, and the planer will take off about the same amount of material, from the sound of it. This doesn't only happen on a second pass, either. I can feed the same board through the planer six, seven, or eight times, without adjusting the cutting depth, and the planer continues to remove material at each pass. Unless I'm missing something about how planers work, I would think that the material should have been planed down to thickness on the first pass. I can't figure out why it continues to remove material after multiple passes when I haven't changed the settings. This happens to me every time I use my planer. Not sure if this is relevant but I have a Ridgid #R4331 planer. I also attached a link to a very loud video demonstrating this phenomenon. Thank you in advance for your help and expertise, and thank you for continuing to take the time to put out this phenomenal woodworking podcast. I hope your projects are doing well, and I hope you're doing even better. Sincerely, Zachary T Owens Guys Questions: Hello, Thank you for the great podcast and for answering my questions. I have a question on using Transtint dye. I heard Guy and Huy mention they use it. Not sure about Brian. Anyway, I screwed up 2 projects when trying to apply it. In both cases I mixed it into Zinser Sealcoat shellac. Firs time applied with foam brush on elm. The second time wiped on on maple plywood. In both cases, the color was very inconsistent. I ended up throwing away the plywood and sanding the elm back to bare wood. My question is, is it ok to add Transtint dye to shellac? If so, what could be my problem? More importantly, can you tell me the process you follow to apply Transtint dye? The dye I was using is Transtint Dark Walnut. Max I have owned my Sawstop cabinet saw for nearly a year now and I have consistently been impressed with the quality of the machine. One thing that has bugged me since I got the saw is the occasional binding I get when I do a rip cut especially. I have meticulously aligned the fence with the blade/miter slots and with a dial indicator jig to be parallel. I thought it may be internal stresses in the wood but I have the same issue ripping plywood or MDF. I finally figured out the problem. I am using Freud thin kerf blades which have a kerf of 0.091" inches according to the manufacturer. My riving knife is a few thousands thicker than this . Sawstop offers a thin riving knife but I have seen mixed opinions and wanted to get your guys' take on it since I know at least one or two of you have the Sawstop cabinet saw. Have you ever had this problem? Thanks! Adam Huys Questions: Dear Woodshop Life Podcast Senseis, Thank you again for your awesome podcast. New listener. Finally finished all podcasts and now going back and listening to them all again. This is my second question submitted in the past few months. Just as I prefaced in my last question/submission, I am in the process of setting up my workshop in a one car space of a three car garage. One of the first things I built in my current workshop was a miter saw station using 2x4’s and plywood. I’m glad I used relatively inexpensive materials, because after only a few months I realized that I allocated too much space to an immobile monolith in my small workshop. I plan to build a mobile miter saw station with collapsable wings to replace my current miter saw station. The wings when extended will support longer material and when folded will create a smaller footprint. I recently watched Guy’s video entitled “Build This Small Sturdy Workbench” on his YouTube channel. The base of the workbench gave me an idea for the base for my miter saw. I’ll add retractable casters to make it mobile. I want to buy a hollow chisel mortiser for this and future projects. Based on my budget of $600, I think that limits me to a benchtop model. Are there any benchtop hollow chisel mortisers in my price range that you might suggest? Thank you again for the great podcast and thank you in advance for your advice. Best, Darryl Noda (Wildfield Workshop) I discovered your podcast earlier this year and have now gone back and listened to the entire back catalog while making sawdust in the shop. I appreciate all the knowledge you are sharing with the entire woodworking community. A question I have recently started thinking about is what would happen with my workshop if something happened to me. I have invested a considerable amount of money in tools from a Sawstop, Laguna Pflux dust collector and Harvey router table, to planes, chisels, and way too many Woodpecker tools. But neither of my kids nor other family members are interested in woodworking, and they wouldn't know what to do with a workshop full of tools. Have you made plans for how to sell or donate your tools? I have created a Will and Trust for my house and financial assets, but I think having a solid plan for the Workshop would be very helpful for my family, but I don't know where to start. Any ideas for community groups that could be donated to, or how the tools could be sold to the right audience? I happen to live in the Indianapolis area as well, so any specific suggestions would be welcome, as well as general ideas.Kevin